coastal british columbia
Carag-Dur; Funk Soul Brother Wall - Eldred Valley, BC by Colin Dionne
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Carag-Dur; Funk Soul Brother Wall
Funk Soul Brother Wall (VI 5.7/A4+) Matt Maddaloni and John Millar put up this twelve pitch aid route over eight days on the formation Carag-Dur. Carag-Dur, although it is among the smaller walls in the valley, easily rivals the chief. Any party attempting this route should remember to bring at least 40 heads and 25 bird beaks. Good Luck.
Powell Riverís Eldred Valley access descriptions:
To reach the Eldred, travel via B.C. ferries to Powell River, then go to Lang Bay Approximately 15 km south of the Westveiw ferry terminal, or if landing at Saltery bay 10 km north. From Lang bay store head about 1km north to the goat lake main logging road. Follow the goat main for 34 miles (logging rd signage is in miles in P.R.) after this pleasant two- hour drive you canít miss the walls. Access to Psyche Slab is from the pullout at mp. 34 the West Main Wall trail starts at 35.5. The logging road is closed to the public from 6a.m. Until 6p.m. Monday until Friday. Generally speaking traveling when the road is active should be avoided as 100 tonne logging trucks pose a serious objective hazard. Traveling up in early morning (before 6) or down in the evening (after 6) is OK, however use extreme caution at all times on the logging road.
Carag-Dur: Park at mp.34.25 (not signed). You will know you are there because the road curves to the right and Carag-Dur is very prominent across the river. An old overgrown road heads down to the river at this location allowing a crossing of the Eldred with the help of a 30-foot extension ladder. Once across the river locate a seldom used, flagged trail, that leads up to the base of the wall below the Funk soul brother wall. Some exploration for the trail will pay off, as some of the terrain below Carag-Dur is very gnarly. Approach takes about 1Ĺ hours from the West Side of the river. To descend, follow the summit ridge down to the north until you reach the top of a prominent gully heading back to the south along the base of the wall. Thrash across the base of the wall until you reach the approach trail. West Main Wall: At mile 35.5 a rough road leads down to a large clearing by the river. From the end of the clearing a faint trail leads about 100feet into the bush, revealing a cable crossing the Eldred. From the opposite bank head down stream about 200-feet until you come out on an old road. This road forks after a short distance, go right. After about 300m the road forks again this time take the left (uphill fork). After some time you will come to another fork to the left, this fork can be difficult to spot, it is below the extreme right margin of the Mainer, if you walk past it the road will peter out quickly. The road should now be traversing below the wall from right to left. About 100m before the end of the road you will find tent-platforms amidst some large alder trees. A flagged route heads up through the logging slash and slide debris from this point dumping you at the base of the wall about 100m to the left of the Mainline. Approach takes about 2 Ĺ hours from the West Side of the river. To descend follow slabs and gully south from the summit, enter the forest on the south side of the drainage when practical. Continue down until it is possible to traverse the creek and logging slash back north to the road end landing on the approach. Allow a full day for the descent.
Powell Rivers Eldred valley contains a very extensive array of granite big walls that easily rival Yosemite. The area is easily accessed via two wheel drive vehicle (high clearance) and should appeal to any climber with an exploratory bent. Several routes have been put up ranging in difficulty from III/5.9 toVI/5.11/A4+.
For more recent information, please check out http://powellriverrock.wixsite.com/cadmc Climbing in Powell River by Christie Dionne
Eldred Valley - Powell River
Psyche Slab | Carag-Dur | Amon Rudh | Mainline | Bouldering
Eldred Valley - Powell River