coastal british columbia  

Psyche Slab - Eldred Valley, BC by Colin Dionne  

Rusty Rope Gun - Eldred Valley, Powell River, May 21, 2006 - Photo:Derek Kyostia
rider: Rusty
comment/trick: Rusty, our rope gun, deep in meditation immediately prior to scaling Schizophrenia. Despite his identity crisis, Rusty enjoys chasing squirrels, adult contemporary music and long walks on the beach.....if you see this dog seemingly wandering through the forest, rest assured he's just passing the time as his Master works through the crux high over head...
location/venue: Base of "Schizophrenia" in the Eldred Valley, Powell River.
date photo taken: May 21, 2006
photographer: Derek Kyostia


Psyche Slab

new route completed in 2002
Schizophrenia (III 5.10) A modern classic, skits follows a stunning combination of steep slabs and discontinuous features. Each of the routes twelve pitches are remarkable. definitely a route that delivers. Fixed rap anchors allow easy descent. F.A. CAD, Christie Lepitre Schizophrenia beta from unknown source

new route completed in 2002
Solstice (lll 5.10) solstice provides a four pitch 5.10 alternative to the first four pitches of schizophrenia. F.A. CAD, Christie Lepitre

new route completed in 2002
Seretonin Reuptake Inhibitor (lll 5.10) Seretonin climbs mixed ground to the left of Sanitarium. Fun. First ascent: Brian Pickles, Luke Clark, Neil Ives.

Delusional Reality (III 5.9+) This route is an enjoyable outing involving 12 pitches of moderate cracks and slabs on the right-hand buttress of the formation psyche slab. As a party from Courtney discovered the hard way, bring two ropes! Pitches 1-6 were first climbed by Michelle Thibeault and Colin Dionne in 1996. The final 6 pitches being climbed by Christie Lepitre and Colin Dionne in 1999. The 1999 addition to the route is known as the infectious grooves. Big Fun!

Sanitarium (III 5.9+) Michelle Thibeault and Colin Dionne put up this ten pitch Trad slab route in 1995 to facilitate rapping off of Psyche slab. Ten full rope raps will get you to the ground after summiting on any of the Psyche slab routes. This route is excellent to familiarize yourself with the valley.

Psychopath (III 5.10) The first route in the valley put up by Rob and Casey Richards, Lisa Padgett, and John Hagen in 1988 on psyche slab. This ten-pitch mega-classic is known for its traditional aesthetic appeal. It has no bolts, fixed anchors or other blemishes. If you plan on retreating I hope you're rich.

Powell Riverís Eldred Valley access descriptions:

To reach the Eldred, travel via B.C. ferries to Powell River, then go to Lang Bay Approximately 15 km south of the Westveiw ferry terminal, or if landing at Saltery bay 10 km north. From Lang bay store head about 1km north to the goat lake main logging road. Follow the goat main for 34 miles (logging rd signage is in miles in P.R.) after this pleasant two- hour drive you canít miss the walls. Access to Psyche Slab is from the pullout at mp. 34 the West Main Wall trail starts at 35.5. The logging road is closed to the public from 6a.m. Until 6p.m. Monday until Friday. Generally speaking traveling when the road is active should be avoided as 100 tonne logging trucks pose a serious objective hazard. Traveling up in early morning (before 6) or down in the evening (after 6) is OK, however use extreme caution at all times on the logging road.

Psyche Slab: Follow the goat lake mainline to the pullout at mp. 34. Two trails lead to the slab from the vicinity of the pullout. To approach the left side of the wall walk about 75m up the road to where a faint trail leads across the ditch on the right hand side of the road. This trail is just before a left hand curve in the road. The trail heads very directly to the wall staying to the left of a small gully. It arrives at the base of Sanitarium. To approach the right side of the wall, walk approximately 100m down the road from the pullout at 34 mile to a trail just before the bridge across b-branch creek. This trail leads up to the center-right area of psyche slab in the vicinity of the Falkland crisis and psychopath. To reach Delusional reality, head into the gully to the east of the wall. Delusional starts at the bottom of the gully. A well worn bear trail traverses below the wall from the sanitarium trail across the base of the wall intersecting the psychopath trail, and heads up the gully to Delusional. Approach should take 15minutes. To descend from the summit of psyche slab rap sanitarium (two 55m ropes) or take the gorilla-snot trail which follows the gully immediately behind and to the west of the summit area. Descending the gorilla-snot trail may take as long as three hours.

climbing photos & beta on Eldred Valley, British Columbia, Cananda by Colin Dionne
Powell Rivers Eldred valley contains a very extensive array of granite big walls that easily rival Yosemite. The area is easily accessed via two wheel drive vehicle (high clearance) and should appeal to any climber with an exploratory bent. Several routes have been put up ranging in difficulty from III/5.9 toVI/5.11/A4+.

For more recent information, please check out Climbing in Powell River by Christie Dionne

Eldred Valley - Powell River
Psyche Slab | Carag-Dur | Amon Rudh | Mainline | Bouldering