Surfing Vancouver Island  

Surfing Related Books - links and reviews  

The Driftwood Coast: Surfing Through the Seasons on Vancouver Island by Brady Clarke

The Driftwood Coast: Surfing Through the Seasons on Vancouver Island by Brady Clarke

After years of exploring and photographing Vancouver Island’s rugged West coast as both a surfer and whale watching guide, Brady Clarke finally decided to package all of his images and a collection of thoughts together in this, his first book "The Driftwood Coast: Surfing Through the Seasons on Vancouver Island"


"Each season brings its own unique and surprising joys in this surfing life, be it the huge and stormy swells of winter, the emergence and return of life in spring, the warm, late evening sunset sessions of summer, or the clean, strong groundswells of fall. This book is a photographic journey through those seasons, accompanied by four personal essays; an accumulation of memories, feelings and experiences from my life as a surfer on this driftwood coast."

"We sit facing the fire and the ocean behind it, with our backs to the woods. I step away for a bathroom break. A couple of steps into the forest and I’m surrounded by absolute darkness. This is a vast and primordial wilderness, and it’s very much alive. There is more biomass here per square foot than anywhere else on earth. Gigantic old growth Sitka Spruce, Coastal Hemlocks and Western Red cedars grow with reckless abandon. The ground is spongy, green and alive, not an inch without something growing or decomposing. Being immersed in such unfettered wild is humbling and it’s not difficult to imagine you’ve stepped back in time a couple of thousand years. I sit back down by the fire, and notice the smoke is blowing offshore, if it keeps up the waves will be perfect tomorrow."

"Authors’ note Surf spot names and locations have been deliberately omitted. It is not my intention to expose or disclose any surf spots. Good, surfable waves are a limited resource, and to endure the elements and live the life of a Canadian surfer takes dedication, commitment and a sense of adventure. To share information that represents an accumulation of knowledge, experience, hard work and risk, would not only be a disservice to those who found these places and have surfed them for years, it would take away the inherent reward of achievement one feels after searching and discovering on their own."

Want to see more? Check out a sample at
For a discounted price, contact Brady directy at



The Cedar Surf: An Informal History of Surfing in British Columbia

The Cedar Surf: An Informal History of Surfing in British Columbia

by Grant Shilling - published by New Star - edited by Terry Glavin

Ask at these stores

Bolen Books, Hillside Centre Victoria
PB Cruise Bookseller, 1713a Bowen Rd Nanaimo
32 Books, 3018 Edgemont Boulevard North Vancouver,
Blackberry Books, 1663 Duranleau St Vancouver
Duthie Books, 2239 W. 4th Ave. Vancouver
People's Co-operative Bookstore, 1391 Commercial Dr Vancouver
Spartacus Books, 311 West Hastings St Vancouver,

Liquid Comfort - A Surf Story - Cheryl Petro
- Publication Date:August 4, 2013
Travis Kelly wants nothing more than to win the world surfing championship and show up his rival, Kane, but when a horrible accident leaves him disabled, he finds himself floating in a world of misery. Surfing was his life. How will he cope? By drowning his sorrows in alcohol, he runs the risk of following in his dead-beat brother’s footsteps—a path of addiction he despises, yet seems drawn toward.

Surfing With The Devil: In Search of Waves and Peace in the Middle East - Grant Shilling
Surfing With the Devil dives ... down into the depths of what makes us truly human, and proves that in the midst of war and endless conflict, perhaps paddling out into the waves is the only reasonable act left.'

Secrets of Power Surfing - Power Surfing Workout by Dave Rearwin
Secrets of Power Surfing - Power Surfing Workout by Dave Rearwin
The ultimate book for surfers, would-be surfers, and anyone who wants to get in shape and stay there. A detailed surf manual that includes surfing exercises, tips on how to surf better, photos, surf stories and more. The only simple, effective, zero-impact, surf-specific workout available.
A unique surf book including
  • Stretching exercises: for surfing, for other sports, and for daily life.
  • Surf exercises: specific exercises for surfing fitness in all phases of surfing, including paddling, popping up, board control and general flexibility and agility.
  • How to surf: from observation to determination to common sense, a collection of tips and advice on how to surf better and have better surf sessions.
  • Surf stories: a variety of surf scenes witnessed and surfing situations experienced, to illustrate the points made in the book.
  • Surfing photos: each photo illustrates a point made in the book.

Topanga Beach Experience 1960s-70s by Paul Lovas (as told to Pablo Capra) (2011) - Publisher: Brass Tacks Press

» Book Review:Topanga Beach Experience:1960s - 70s -

Secrets of a Kahuna Bodysurfer - by Lani Lowell
A Spiritual Adventure Guide is an upbeat PsychoSpiritual Development book that illuminates 40 Ways and Days to Surf Your way to your Heart's Desire!

To The Four Corners of the World H/C - Peter Troy's travels
An original and influential figure in the early days at Bells Beach, Troy left Australia in 1963 and roamed the planet with surfboard under arm, from Europe to Hawaii, South America to Africa, introducing surfing to Brazil and discovering untold perfect waves, like Nias off the coast of Sumatra.
He was a pioneer, comparing lugging his balsa longboard around the globe to travelling with a grand piano. But his surfboard was his letter of introduction and his trail-blazing adventures etched his name into surfing folklore, inspiring a generation to look beyond their local beach.
He documented every step of his remarkable journey in letters home, which remained undiscovered until his untimely death in 2008. This is his story.

365 Surf Days - by Chris Lowery
a collection of one year of images inspired by the art of surfing

Wild Sea - by Serge Dedina
tells the real-life story of struggles, blockades and the loss of rich biodiverse land in California and the Baja California peninsula.

Surfer and the Mermaid - photos by Ted Grambeau and story by Tim Baker
a positive enviromental message. This is a children's book

Early Pleasures: Memoirs of a Sensual Youth - by Frederick Kohner. Black Heron Press.
It is a wonderful novel/about four women in my dad's life...( a coming of age story).. BY the author of GIDGET.. my dad wrote so well about youth culture. Kathy Kohner (Gidget)

Kook - a true tale about a 45-year-old who get obsessed with surfing - Written by Peter Heller
Peter Heller was in the middle of his life, unmarried, had just published his second book and was at a crossroads. A journalist who’d recently discovered surfing, he came up with an outlandish plan: drop everything and go from novice —or kook— to mastering a big hollow wave in just six months. In KOOK: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave Peter Heller relays the ups and downs of his surfing journey from Southern California down the coast of Mexico. And through this magical sport, Peter finds his ability to commit to love. KOOK is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea. Beginning in mid-July and continuing through August, Heller is embarking on a 10-city Barnstormer Tour, piloting his Cessna to bookstores and surf shops up the west coast. He’s a KOOK!

Papersurfer - Diary of a middle aged surfer - age 38 and a half - Written and illustrated by Penfold Crockett - (Penfold Publications – paperback 87 pages) - £6.99 from
"Some surfers are real men. They put their lives on the line every day in search of the ultimate wave. Jaws, Mavericks, Teahupoo – these are the waves that take names. Heaving tons of water pushed by storm and moon to create a thundering wall that only the true hero can ride. You are not this man."
Papersurfer is the essential manual for every person slipping uneasily into middle age. If you feel there is a void in your life, an inexplicable notion that something vital is missing then you should consider learning how to surf (it will provide you with all the disappointment and humiliation that has been missing in your life). Papersurfer will help you through these difficult times with a sideways glance at Global surf culture and some valuable lessons in life, love and the most challenging sport on the planet. You won't learn any radical manoeuvres or how to 'charge Pipe' but it will give you a clue as to which way round you should wear your wetsuit and how not to get a thorough beating from the locals.
This book was scribed by Penfold Crockett during his own difficult transition from kook to surfer. He currently resides in the mountains of Portugal - which is, in his own words "...a bleedin' ridiculous place for a surfer to live..."

The Santa Louise Kid - Murder by T. Robert Yani - published by Black Rose Writing - fantasy with a Gnostic theme. The main character, Jamie Tomas Williams is a combination of a twentieth century young Merlin/King Arthur.
Jamie has been assigned by his spiritual father, Simon Magus, and spiritual mother, Helen, to cleanup the human garbage left over from World War II. His witch family, The DeMolays, have almost been wiped out by a criminal witch family, the Destragas, in Languedoc, New Jersey. The five remaining DeMolay’s plus Jamie head for California in July 1950. Their new home is on Santa Louise Island, eight miles off the coast of Malibu, California.

My Daddy Taught Me to Surf - new children's picture book will be released this summer.

All the Way to the Ocean - Joel Harper - children's book deals with educating youth to the harmful effects of urban runoff. Forward by Laird Hamilton

Together with support from Big Wave Surfer Laird Hamilton, Save Our Seas Foundation, aquariums, national parks and watershed education organizations, author Joel Harper (musician, music teacher, brother of Ben Harper) displays unbridled passion in raising the awareness of children and their parents to the dangers facings the marine and aquatic environment. Is an uplifting story about two best friends, Isaac and James, and their discovery of the cause and effect relationship between our cities'storm drains and the world's oceans, lakes and rivers.
Joel is hopeful that people may change the tide and that All the Way to the Ocean may serve as a gentle reminder that, by working together, people can preserve these natural resources and ensure they will be here for future generations.

Good Things Love Water - Chris Ahrens - humorous and sensitive collection of surf stories

Joyrides - Chris Ahrens 1988.

Kelea's Gift - Chris Ahrens - surf stories

The Pipeline - Billabong & Surfline : 200 pages of images from over 50 photographers, with words from surfing's most renowned writers

Bustin Down the Door, Wayne Rabbit Bartholomew with Tim Baker, Oz and Hawaii surf history - HarperCollins - 1996
The Ninth Wave - Eugene Burdick
Bing Surfboards—fifty years of craftsmanship and innovation by Paul Holmes: 192-pages, high-quality, full-color, coffee-table format (9½" x 12¼") hardcover book featuring 300-plus historic and contemporary photographs including some 50 action surf shots of Bing Copeland and his illustrious contingent of team riders through the years taken by some of surfing’s all time great photographers.

Tom Blake: Surfing 1922-1932 - Foreword by Gary Lynch. published: T. Adler Books 02/02/2001 - Slipcased, 10 x 12 in. / 68 pgs / 49 duotone.

The Next Wave: the world of surfing - Nick Carroll - Abbeville Press, 1991
Surf-dog days and bitchin Nights - Corky Carroll with Joe Engel - Contemporary Books, 1989
Charlie Don't Surf, But Aussies Do:

Women of the Waves (Hardcover) by Linda Chase (Author), Elizabeth Pepin (Photographer)

The Coming of the Surfman - Peter Collington
Eddie Would Go: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero - Stuart Holmes Coleman
How fo' surf Wit' Palaka Joe by Patrick Ching, Jeff Pagay - Published1995, Naturally Hawaiian

Surf Culture: The Art History of Surfing by Bolton T Colburn

One by Joe Curren - a visual odyssey -

This Is King Island by Sean Davey - words & photographs -

SURFDRUMS - The Art of Surf Drumming dvd

Surfing’s Greatest Misadventures - Edited By Paul Diamond and Tyler McMahon - Casagrande Press
The Life of Michael Peterson - Sean Doherty
Morning Glass: An Autobiography of Mike Doyle - Mike Doyle, Steve Sorensen - Mountain & Sea, June 1, 1993
Caught Inside: a surfer's year on the California coast, Daniel Duane, North Point Press, 1996
HI Surf Advisory: Book Report - Caught Inside
30 Years of Riding the World's Biggest Waves - Fred Van Dyke - Ocean Sports, 1989
Surfing Adventures of the '60s, '70s and Beyond by Andy Forsyth

Surf Flex - Paul Frediani - addresses the fitness and conditioning requirements of surfing
Surfing on the Cape Fear Coast by Joseph "Skipper" Funderburg: A Tribute to the surfing heritage of Wrightsville Beach and Carolina Beach, North Carolina:

Capturing The Perfect Wave - LeRoy Grannis, Surf Photography of the 1960s and 1970s, limited edition 1,000 copies, with a forward by Steve Barilotti
The Complete Surfing Guide for Coaches - Dr Bruce Gabrielson
Big Surf, Deep Dives and The Islands - My Life in the Ocean by Ricky Grigg
Surf Science - An Introduction to Waves for Surfing by Tony Butt & Paul Russell with Rick Grigg (2004).
HI Surf Advisory: Book Report - Surf Science
Kimo's Surfing Lesson - Kerry Germain [KIDS BOOK]

Surf's Up For Kimo - Kerry Germain [KIDS BOOK]

Kimo's Summer Vacation - Kerry Germain [KIDS BOOK]
The Art of Surfing: A Training Manual for the Developing and Competitive Surfer (Paperback) by Raul Guisado (Author)

The Perfect Day: 40 Years of Surfer Magazine by Sam George (Editor) - Chronicle Books, April 2001
Experience Pipeline by Author Quinn Haber -

The Water's End - Christopher Hawkins - Trafford Publishing
Duke: A Great Hawaiian by Sandy Hall - Bess Press -
Dale Velzy is Hawk - the authorized biography by Paul Holmes
Surfing San Onofre to Point Dume, 1936-1942 - Donald H. James - Chronicle Books, June 1998
Surfing Books - The Mountain and the Wave -The Quiksilver Story by Phil Jarratt

Mr. Sunset: The Jeff Hakman Story by Phil Jarratt - General Pub. Group, 1997

Chasing Dreams -backpacking/surf novel set in Newquay, Thailand and Australia by Aaron Jennings ISBN: 1849231354
North Shore Chronicles: big wave surfing in Hawaii - Bruce Jenkins - North Atlantic Books, 1990
The Surfer's Textbook "What every surfer needs to know"

The Art of the Surf Board (Hardcover) by Drew Kampion (Author), Greg Noll (Introduction)

The Lost Coast - Drew Kampion - a collection of surf stories
Stoked: A History of Surf Culture - Drew Kampion
Surf and Sea, John M Kelly 1965 Hard cover, 304 pages, 58 b/w photographs, 22 b/w illustrations, glossary. bibliography, index : intelligent and detailed account of surfing and the ocean from a US/Hawaiian viewpoint

Lopez, the Classic Hawaiian Surfer - Carlos Lorch - Mountain and Sea, 1982
Competitive Surfing: A dedicated Approach - Brian Lowdon
Surfing the Ultimate Pleasure - Leonard Lueras - Workman Publishing, 1984
Surf Clowns: Seven Mental Missions By Leslie Connell Lyon and Charles Lyon - a children's adventure saga
Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing By Patrick Moser (Editor)

The Impact Zone - Ray Maloney - Delacorte Press, 1986
Walking on Water - Andy Martin - J.Murry, 1991
Stoked - Bill Morris
Tribes of Palos Verdes - Joy Nicholson - St. Martin's Press
Da Bull: Life over the edge, Greg Noll and Andrea Gabbard, North Atlantic Books, 1989
Tijuana Straits - Kem Nunn - Scribner 2004 Hardcover
The Dogs of Winter - Kem Nunn - Scribner, 1996
Tapping the Source - Kem Nunn - Four Walls Eight Windows, May 2000
Sister Surfer, a Woman's Guide to Surfing with Bliss and Courage by Mary Osbourne and Kia Afcari

All for a Few Perfect Waves - The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer MIKI DORA by David Rensin BOOK REVIEW - Bob Feigel

Surf.Com - Fred Reiss - fiction, dot-commers kill the Santa Cruz surfing scene during the technology boom, very funny, heart-tugging in places, great for old surfers and new!.
Gidget Must Die - Fred Reiss.
Sick Surfers ask the Surf Docs and Dr. Geoff - Mark Renneker, Kevin Starr, & Geoff Booth
Surfing the Soul - Mountain, Ocean and Spirit - Mark Rovan - poetry. The surfing portion includes pieces on Rell Sunn, Mark Renneker, and Phillippe Pomar.
Jeffreys Bay Marcus Sanders and Kimball Taylor explore the history of Jeffreys Bay

Surf Fever - John Severson - In 1960, The Surfer, a modest booklet crammed with Severson's highly evocative black-and-white 16mm frame grabs, a few pen-and-ink sketches, acouple of ads, and even a literate short fiction, hit the surf shops. It soon became SURFER MAGAZINE, the bible of the sport. In this labor of love, John expands on his original theme, creating 'SURF FEVER,' a 216 page hard-cover book filled with the same stoke and all of his fabulous photos."
The Basics of Surfboard Design - by Bob Smith
Wolfgang Bloch (Hardcover) by Mike Stice - Chronicle Books San Francisco, 2008. A creative collaboration between three people who share a deep-seated passion for art and the ocean: Bloch himself, design legend David Carson, and author Mike Stice. They have created an art book as inimitable as the art it captures, an intimate, soulful account of an artist's rich and layered life, alongside the most evocative examples of Bloch's work.

Surfing the Great Lakes - By PL Strazz - Big Lauter Tun Books
Surfer Magazine Cover Gallery -
Switch-Foot - surfing/art/music out of Australia. With a heavy leaning towards the non-competitive side of surfing, this 210 page hardcover book is a must have for every collector. Switch-foot is a collective of like-minded people giving respect to the history of surfing, music, art, surfing legends and surfing photography while retaining independence and creativity. Koastal Media Distribution, Inc
200 Years of Surfing Literature - An Annotated Bibliography - by Kauai surfing historian Timothy T. DeLa Vega.
Vintage Surfboards - collectible hardbound book by Jim Winniman. Limited edition of 485. Chronicles over 200 years of surf culture and makes an excellent reference guide! Measures apprx. 8 3/4" x 11." Front cover image taken from a 1928 oil painting by Samuel MacLeod. Back cover features a 1921 image of Duke Kahanamoku.

Cabo and Coral Go Surfing! By Jami Lyn and Udo Wahn - An inspirational and educational children's book about surfing and the " Aloha Spirit" for ages 3-8

The Encyclopedia of Surfing by Matt Warshaw - Published:2005; Harcourt; Orlando, FL; 800 pages

Maverick's : the story of big wave surfing - Matt Warshaw - Chronicle Books, October 2000
Surfriders - Matt Warshaw
Surfing California by Bank Wright (under Allan Wright on
Can't You Get Along With Anyone? A Writer's Memoir - Allen Weisbecker - Pre-release Sale and Surfboard Giveaway
In Search of Captain Zero - Allan Weisbecker
The History of Surfing by Nat Young -

Nat's Nat and That's That by Nat Young -

Surfing Fundamentals by Nat Young -
Surf Rage - Nat Young
HI Surf Advisory: Book Report - Surf Rage
The Real Gidget! - Kathy Kohner-Zuckerman - Malibu, CA

non-surfing but still wet